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发布日期:2021年05月09日
Change danfoss thermostat

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by Reevey1966, Jan 1, 2021 at 2:51 PM.

  1. Reevey1966

    Reevey1966 New Member

    Hi I have an old Danfoss RMT230 Room Thermostat which has 3 wires and I wonder if I could change it to this Danfoss Wireless thermostat RET2000B-RF + RX1S which has the wireless that I can move to another room. I can't seem to add a picture of my thermostat.
     
  2. Hoops-senior

    Hoops-senior New Member

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  3. Reevey1966

    Reevey1966 New Member

    Or anyone know of an easy swap using the same wires
     
  4. Hoops-senior

    Hoops-senior New Member

    You mention three wires. These are going to be L (1), and Lsw (switched by the thermostat) (2). A photo would help identify the third. The RX1-S in the link I sent you has the L and N powering the internals. The COM (2) will also be L and the ON (3) the Lsw would be my take on it
     
  5. Hoops-senior

    Hoops-senior New Member

    Can't see the photo.
     
  6. Mike83

    Mike83 Screwfix Select

    Your wires on the old stat left-right will be
    Neutral,
    Live;
    Switched live.
     
  7. Reevey1966

    Reevey1966 New Member

    For some reason I can't get picture to show up it has a cross on it when I post
     
  8. Reevey1966

    Reevey1966 New Member

    Here is the picture [​IMG]
     
  9. Hoops-senior

    Hoops-senior New Member

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    4 is Neutral (blue sleeve). 1 is Live. 2 is Switched Live (brown sleeve).

    From this it looks like the new unit (RX1-S) will be the brown to L and to 2, Blue sleeve to N, Brown sleeve to 4 (switches OFF when temperature reaches required setting, so default is NC - Normally Closed (ON)).

    Compare this to the links I sent and you'll see it (fig 6 in the RMT document).
     
  10. Reevey1966

    Reevey1966 New Member

    Hi thanks for the info you have said brown twice. and would I have to link brown to L and to 2 with extra wire across.
    Or do you know of a wireless thermostat that would use the 3 wires
     
  11. Teki

    Teki Screwfix Select

    Yes that is correct, you need a link wire from L to 2 on the RX1-S. You would have to do the same on any wireless thermostat you purchased.
     
    Hoops-senior likes this.
  12. MGW

    MGW Screwfix Select

    The only wireless thermostat that I know does not need a neutral is Nest e. But at to link wires it depends on the model Hive single channel would need link wire, duel channel would not, some are internal linked others are not. The old mechanical wall thermostat does not need the neutral, with neutral connected it reduces the hysteresis (over shoot) but in some cases the difference between on and off temperatures is good.

    The wall thermostat has two completely different jobs, it can be to stop cycling when the weather gets warmer, often placed in the hall, or to control room temperature. Old boilers and oil boilers often controls room temperature but with modern gas boilers a simple on/off thermostat is to stop cycling as weather warms up.

    The modern gas boiler modulates (flame height alters) and it is more efficient when not running flat out, if switched off, on being switched back on again it runs flat out, so either a wall thermostat that connects to boiler ebus is wanted, or the control is done with the thermostatic radiator valve (TRV) as they close the by-pass opens and warm water returns to boiler which in turn turns down flame height. Because it is an analogue control it has much less of a hysteresis, and also the boiler is able to extract latent heat.

    Even with oil boilers that don't modulate the TRV works well so each rooms is at heat required, I really don't care what temperature the hall is at, but it is central to house, so best place for master thermostat. What would be likely better is some thing like EvoHome which has a central hub controlling boiler and takes the temperature of each room using a wifi link, however be it Hive, EvoHome, or others with links between TRV and wall thermostat/hub they are expensive and with a little thought non wifi linked TRV heads like the terrier i30 and eQ-3 can often do the job nearly as well but a lot cheaper. In my case the wall thermostat drops 0.5°C hour before the TRV calls for more heat and then back up 0.5°C when it calls, but I have non modulating oil boiler, no need for that with a modulating boiler.

    In the main with a modulating boiler the on/off wall thermostat should only switch off when there is warm weather and the boiler starts to cycle. Or when it is programmed to turn off boiler and swaps from room thermostat duties to frost stat duties.

    The problem is hard wired thermostats can work well simply switching off boiler in warm weather, but the really cheap wireless can loose wireless links and boiler stays on or off, and the mid range wireless have fail safe for wireless link loss but use a mark/space ratio to stop over shoot which means boiler runs inefficient, so you need some thing like Nest which uses algorithms to work out when to switch off, so it allows the boiler to use the latent heat. But once you get to Nest then it also has OpenTherm so can control boiler analogue which is far better if the boiler is OpenTherm enabled.

    Remember there is a big difference between controlling the room temperature, and controlling the room temperature efficiently. If using oil or solid fuel fired central heating then any thermostat will do, but if using a gas modulating boiler, the lock shield valves, and TRV head settings are very important for efficient running.
     
  13. Bazza

    Bazza Screwfix Select

    If you have a wireless thermostat then it comes in two parts. The thermostat that can go anywhere and the receiver. Usually the receiver does not go where the old stat was located, it goes where the heating wiring centre is located. You will provide all the wires and connectivity that you need there.
     

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